So this is the quality of my photo and there is a glitch with most things I do!!! At the moment I cant seem to do anything right, I normally get a few days like this every year but this year the bad days seem to be a year long, a plague of glitches.
Monday, 8 February 2021
Wednesday, 20 January 2021
A good climb cheers you up, a good climb is like an antidote for what makes you sick. Roll out the great routes for verily I am sick, this sickness isn't a virus, its just a real awful case of disgust. The politicians are clearly disgusting selfish twats, but that isn't new, what's new and to an unbearable and shameful level is the willingness of people to just accept restrictions to their lives to a mind boggling degree. If you had told me that people would happily let themselves be locked up for months, if you had told me that they would let people boss them around not be allowed to visit their sick, or elderly family, I would have previously told you never, only in a dictatorship, only in former East Germany or China, or North Korea.
On the way down to the climb at sea level, you walk and climb down some slabs and are careful on two steeper sections.
Its going to be a year into what some people who I don't trust tell me is the biggest threat to our lives since the Second World War. I will now tell you they are lying and they have been proven liars in the past and I have no evidence that they are telling the truth this time! I have seen no piles of dead in this great year of the Plague, I dont know a single person who has died of Corona in this terrible time. In my street nobody has died, in my village nobody has died, no plague visible, perhaps else where, but certainly not near me. A few doors down, a man I used to say hello to fell under his tractor, we couldn't even go to his funeral!
A diving friend, his first multi pitch, a big imposing cliff accessed by two traversing pitches, we had to wait for rough seas to subside.
This is the way off the climb, my mate stops to admire his surroundings, he is impressed, he climbed 4 pitches 5, 4, 5+, 6a. Terribly happy he is thinking of stopping his 10 year business, he is terribly happy until he thinks about what the hell to do with his life.
Climb and Dive I say, breath, and take joy in holding your breath underwater, talk to fishes, talk to the sky.
Caught between the sun and shade, betwixt the devil and the sea.
a 40 meter pitch, a beautiful long delightful gritty slab, with a couple of steep interesting bits.
I like this photo so much I will force you to look at it again.
Looking down the Titan 40 meters wonderful rough rock, behind the climber the wall gently overhangs, it has a 7b, a 7a+, a perfect 7a, and an 8a, hardly any visitors in a normal year, and in this extraordinary year of the plague no one! Forsaken, forgotten, but perhaps even more fantastic than ever because climbing is the antidote. Climbing for me and most of my buddies is freedom, its the embodiment of your own autonomy, climbing is like breathing and smiling, and yes like making love, you cannot out law it. Some of my friends in France were hunted down by their own friends in the rescue service at great expense to the taxpayer, that's right brother hunting down their own brothers for enjoying a communion with their special place. The Eiger was once a banded climb, now in many countries every climb is banned. Some climbing clubs and governing bodies have told their members and non members not to climb. If you want to defriend me please do, if you want to 'Cancel' me please do. Life is not life if you are locked up watching Netflix Bollox, life isn't that great for me most of the time, but now at the twilight of my life I want to work, yes you heard that right, I want my normal right to work! Fight for your right to party, fight for your right to climb, and breath fresh air instead of your own farts, do not go into that dark night of compliance.
Tuesday, 13 October 2020
By popular demand a little bit of mixed climbing, or dry tooling, or just simple mountain climbing. Call it what you want, but yes it was a conspiracy, we conspired to climb, have fun, drink beers, and be happy-good plan Mr Secret Squirrel.
All photos Oliviero Gobbi.
This is a class photo showing point Framboise in nice Scottish conditions which are often there after a quick storm, the storm came just as we ordered and was obedient enough to give us a good time. Well done Mr Storm.
The object of the exercise was to do a bit of filming on Ezio's new routes and for me to test the Grivel Dark Machine -hands down the greatest mixed /ice climbing tool thats ever been seen.
The Geant in the back ground floating around like the hallucination it is, a wonderfully easy climb but staggeringly magic.
Typical mixed ground, these routes vary from easy to very hard, too available from the Maestro Ezio.
Now then this sculpture, or bass relief was once in plain air, but the Skyway Cable Car has incorporated it into its top restaurants, a brilliant move. The inscription reads something like if we all helped each other by holding hands, and pulling together life would be much easier. As you know I dont believe in a normal God, but believe in multiple gods, or Godettes. However I believe in this wonderful sentiment, and remember putting this photo in an article 20 or so years ago in that excellent magazine On the Edge!
Saturday, 10 October 2020
Sunday, 27 September 2020
It's not unknown for the police to stage dramatic false crimes, it may even be common. I wonder what you think? Obviously many people are just too thick nowadays to know what an Agent Provocateur is, thanks to an education system that is actually trying to stop you thinking for your selves. So yesterday night I was looking at the usual mainstream media reporting on the Anti Corvid Madness that is going on, what did I see? Well lots of miss reporting, lots of biased reporting, lots of really shit reporting, all adding up to to a sac grovelling journalists selling there own kind and fellow human beings down the river. I will just give you the best one. It's of some police men and women , because today of course we have equal opportunities Pantomine. The vidio from which this screen shot is taken is available on the Guardian paper. What the video wants you to believe is that a hard man copper has a perfect bandage put on his head in the middle of a melee, a perfect Turbanised work of First aid in the middle of a rugby scrum! Magic bit of film! If you are a first aider you will know how hard it is to bandage a head, and you would only do this for a wound. It's all Punch and Judy, it's theatre. If you look around the papers and the Net you can find lots of examples of this, but this fraud is a peach, right there in the heart of London, a stones throw from the Mother of all democratic Parliaments. Please don't accuse me of being right wing, or a Trump supporter, or wanting to infect my granny with a killer virus, but really a perfect bandage, no sign of blood? One could be forgiven for thinking it was under his hat and he presented it like a magician with a rabbit. The UK is a joke, a bad joke. Protest people, protest before your right to protest is taken away-sorry it already has been!
Friday, 25 September 2020
I'am still alive, conditions on earth are worsening, but thank you guys for supporting me in my titanic struggle against the Dipthong thong Virus. Love you long time! Was walking today, diving today, and a tiny bit of climbing, viruses every where.
Some where in the Sinai Egypt, forgotten where, it doesn't matter, I just love Eygptian people especially the people of that brilliant city Dahab.
Tuesday, 22 September 2020
At the begining of the year I was in Egypt having a great time, what the F..k happened!
One Minuit I was doing my daily routine of Prana breathing , then physical yoga and the free diving and then maybe the odd set of pull ups, and the next Minuit it was the Pandemic. I remember thinking "oh here we go again, they will try the old Asian flu card".
I haven't blogged for a while, like most people Iam confused and battered but unlike most I am in fact desperate, no work this year means no money. I dont have a safety net underneath me like all these very nice people advocating a New Normal. I want my old normal back please, the one where I earned a bit of money, was a responsible citizen, and where low risks of death due to the flu was , well normal>
This photo is one of mine I found on the web, dont ask me how its there or why its got a frame, hey the world is changing and things are strange. I have to remember 65 codes for computers, bank accounts, phones, I have to use another 54 chargers for shit I didn't really ever want in the first place, and in having and using all this shit, I am making some people who I despise mega rich.
This photo is from Norway I think. 2 meters of snow fell, no police, no sisters telling you not to slash the hell out of those steep slopes. It was a time before thought crime, it was a time before being accused of killing people by living. It was a great time. My shoulder is better, thanks to many people and no doctors, I,ll just give a shout out to Mick who sent me an exercise protocol and is enjoying a fruitful time climbing in North Wales. I was advised to have an operation by 3 doctors, but I didn't want to get cut up and suffer drugs again. So after a lot of messing around with lots of stuff, and listening to many friends but not doctors, the shoulder is finally co operating and letting me climb and swim.
This is a photo of me doing a bit of yoga, I have been doing yoga since an early age, some times its just a bit of stretching some times its actually lots more, its rebooting me, its anchoring me into this space and time, into this body and into this kind inner mind that is always there. People who know me understand life is a little hard for me, modern life that is, mountains cliffs and the sea is where I need to be, I don't need no Facist groove thing going on. So because of my little journey into freediving my yoga practise has actually become an everyday practise, the morning Prana can be anything from 15 mins to 2 hours. What has this yoga stuff done for me I can hear you question. Well it allowed me to climb while weak, it allowed me to climb kinda without one shoulder, and it allowed me to make a little progress with my topsy turvy mind. Oh and it gave me a Breath hold of 5 mins and a deep dive of 42 meters.
This blog will have to be cut short as my 'mother in law' wants to do some what we call 'disco keep fit', she is a demented old lady who we have to reboot everyday as she watches too much TV. We dont know how to wean her off the TV, the poor thing has to wear a mask and gets breathless when she does so. When the lock down was on we stretched the rules to get her out, but even with that she has put on many kilograms. Granny might have died in a home.