A little progress was seen today, because my training was a bit more systematic and planned out. You would think that I can sort it all out, but ….it's complicated. I am gunning for a very hard route, and it's all about squeezing a few percent here and there, and it totalling up to a big chunk. The route is hard, and I need every little bit. I got two jokers - I'am still fat, and I still drink a bit, possibly three jokers if you include power, my power is down.
This roof is enormous, and is certainly one of the best crack climbs in the world. There is a big problem now that the humidity is too high. If I am unlucky I,ll have to wait for autumn. This is a real shit, as I dropped the route on the last move, twice!
Great route very excited but I am scared the temps are way too high now, 29° today! I did think my flexibility was off, but the leg lifts and overhead movements don't work, because I am maxing out on my leg abducters in the chimney sections, and some of my core is also giving out cos its Trad! I think there's a little fear thrown in there for good measure. All in all it adds up to not having what it takes. Damn and blast, balls, scrotums etc. On top of this is this weird reaction I get after I try the crack, two weeks ago I had a fever, and the skin was burning real bad. Todays wasn't so bad. Need to get this crack done.
