Tuesday, 5 April 2016
Great Fruit Cake Land, by Stevie Fruity Haston .
Had a great day at Fruit Cake Land, one of my favourite cliffs in the world. It was really good conditions which does make a difference here. It can be very humid, or the sea can be belting in like a soggy train.
We warmed up on a perfect 6b, it has only had a few ascents and feels like your own private 7th level of heaven. My fore arms found the wood, John Holmes would have been proud of me. It might be 6c. But who cares, the price of getting into heaven is a pure heart and nimble footwork.
Tried one of my projects a route called Bernd, its ace to the power of ten. The first tiny pitch is a bit tricky and dangerous. I don't like doing it as its two broken legs minimum, and then a swim with your arms, as your legs will just be grinding around causing you a bit of pain.
Forgetting the moves I lurched up with a stupid sequence and plummeted, no probs the friends held. I had a great session, worked some neat ways of robbing gravity until gravity reminded me who was boss. I thought it might have gave in today, conditions were actually perfect, friction was great, temperature cool. I even had luck with the rope drag by some better placements.
There are 40 routes here now some of them are as good as routes get this side of heaven. Bernd is gonna go, I,ll have to loose a bit of weight, it will be one of those classic climbs, can't wait.