Tuesday, 3 November 2015
To Fingerboard, or not to Fingerboard, by Stevie the Question Haston.
Check this link to some words on fingers.
I havent improved in my climbing standard for a year! Why? No systematic training, thats why. More specifically, no real, nasty nose, and fingers to the grindstone Fingerboarding work.
There's a wealth of info out there now, and finger work is a proven method of success, so it's funny that so few do it.
Here is a link to some pull up stuff or knowledge.
I actually like fingerboards, they sooth my soul, they don't hurt my skin, and strangely my fingers get stronger, and thus I pull up on smaller blobs, edges, and pockets. So why don't I do it? Well I went to the USA, went to Germany, and been bolting easy routes for other peoples enjoyment. Time to be selfish, time to finger board. Time to get strong, time to vanquish the old foe. Time for that smell of victory, coffee, sweat and blood. Time to loose 10 kg of lard, and look like a famine victim.
Bernd Arnold is smaller than me, his fingers are about the same size, years of working his fingers on all kinds of grips, a thousand bolts placed by hand. Bernd has strong fingers. I have strong fingers, I'ave done the odd pull up on them. The people I'ave trained, make steady progress through amoung other things, Fingerboard work. Fingerboarding is one of the easiest of tools to use and keep records of, just don't get hurt, get strong!
The gnarly Master himself, did he use a Toe Board? I wouldn't put it past him. Get a Finger board and train a bit longer, and hold things for a bit longer than they (the experts) recommend. "Don't get injured", is the first, and last of the three rules of Training, remember the middle rule too-"dont get injured"!