Performance, equipment and reality. by Stevie Haston.

Things wear out, performance wains, eventually you die. If a rope gets abraided it looses performance, if you loose skin you can't jam. If carabiners are left in a damp humid sea cave they will explode after a while. Things have to be fit for a purpose.  

 Veeda vooooooo granit will hurt you, even if you think your tough!

I want to climb a route which has sharp edges and is gritty, if I used a 9.2 mm rope and bad rope management it might last 5 minutes! So with my last project I was using an old 10mm, because it was at the end of its life, it's a throw away bit of kit now. You cannot ask things to do the impossible, people and things have to be fit for the task. In the old days a single rope was 11mm, now people expect 9.2s to last, or do the impossible. Most likely my project will cost a fortune, in skin, and gear.

 The route Bernd is hurting me and my equipment.

For my route I'am gonna up grade to a 9.8 mm, with a better sheath. My gear will rot. I will loose some, cams will freeze shut, and drop me out of the crack. Even my belayers will get worn out!

 On this fantastic arete you would be foolish not to use a chunky rope. Its called the Wages of Fear, its run out and bolts are on different sides of the arete. Can you imagine the abrasion possibilities?

One little knick in a carabiner, caused by one fall on a bolt plate, can then, when applied to a rope- strip the sheath! Keep your bolt carabiners separate from your rope carabiners!Try to understand the limitations of equipment. I hate Trad climbing, and faffing around with gear, but with some rock, and some places, it's not only obligatory, it's fitting.

 Don't expect this natty excellent sports harness to last very long against sandstone and sharp fossils.

Obviously I am lucky that a few people still like me, and send me gear, so thanks Edelweiss. But  customers, if you want high performance, you must expect reduced longevity.

9.8 mm Edelweiss will last longer than a 9.2, its Math!

A tough rope for a tough job. One of the carabiners had its wire gate bend to the side when I fell and swung on it, so yes I,ll upgrade to chunkier carabiners. My back was scratched, I,ll upgrade to a thicker tee shirt! My muscles were a bit used up, I,ll upgrade them too!