I collect climbs, well I collect great climbs, I'ave a
done a few great climbs that other people collect. But some great climbs are greater than others, "One ring to rule them", and all that.
Jeff came round to see me because he was fed up bolting, and putting chains in for lazy people, who manipulate the powers that be. So I said to Jeff, can you help me mate, "I need a solid belayer and some some one to help me sort a tough crack out. Jeff was thinking 7b kinda crack, he is easy meat for me. Only proviso was, "your sworn to secrecy", cos it's gonna take me ages.
The crack is big, wide fairly easy, then its massively shut down, it's very tough, it's trad, it's called Bernd in honour of one of the greats.
I hate Trad it's so messed up. Kurt Albert sorted out the Red point rule in climbing so every body was on the same page. Kurt Albert was Bernd Arnolds best buddy, Kurt Albert was a man who's integrity I was in awe of, you got what was written on the can.
Jeffs my mate, he has done as many routes as me, he has done way more deep water soloing, and he is nicer than me. So Jeff came over for a winge, and an adventure when it was raining, and asked "can I climb in Gozo when its raining", "Is the Pope a Catholic", I said.
Jeff doesn't always do what I say, which I don't like, he has free will and stuff, what I want is a supportive strong guy, obedient, with good advice about my feet.
here you go, a little ambiance.
Jeff is ensconced on a chock stone belaying, ahead is a wide crack chimney affair, it's not too bad, except for hugely difficult bits bordering on the impossible. It's pissing down out side, me and Jeff are sweating. The day ended finaly with me falling and ripping a friend, it was a mini kinda adventure, it will be good if we ever finish it, I,ll give it away if I can't do it. One of the best trad routes in the world, Gozo keeps giving.