Saturday, 2 May 2015
Let them eat Fruit Cake. by Stevie Fruity Haston.
It's hot, nearly too hot, dreading the summer, it's infernal here. However I have a bit of work in the USA and Italy, so may escape for foreign hellish temperatures instead. Meanwhile at a cliff near me, no bolts no drill, no glue, still climbing. A bit old style, a bit dodgy on the fragile sandstone of fruitcake land, still the rock is so exceptional. I have a trad route here unrepeated from 20 years ago, perhaps I should make it more accessible to others I guess, otherwise it won't ever be done. Is it a route if nobody does it? The sound of one hand clapping! The hand of one egoist stroking himself?
I really don't recommend trad in this rock, and I like bolts to be long!
This photo shows you the full pitch of Heart of Glass. There's gonna be a lot of folk enjoying this one over the years!
This little route will become a great popular route one day, but it won't if I bolt it with bolts four meters apart, will it, or do it with some slings? Anyway it's majestic, a bit pumpy, don't ask me how cos the holds are bigger than my mouth! Did I say it was hot, down by the sea there, the sun was radiating, mesmerising, and stupefying. What a cliff, did 'Fade away and Radiate' twice, I think its 6c, but it's four meters between bolts, not for the faint hearted, it's for the brave hearts!