As I am on a pilgrimage to the roots of the routes of climbing, I thought I'd tourist my way up Action Direct, Wolfies little 9a. Well as I dislike the Franken Jura, it was a long time in coming, long after I can climb at this standard, but what I discovered was perhaps interesting to a few. This climb is first worth going to the Frankenjura for, despite it being the Jura. The character of the route, and the finese of it's moves might well make up for the herbivorous damp setting.
The other thing that's odd about the route, is that it isn't as powerful as it's made out, especially with todays standard of musculature on boys and girls. Indeed the moves to me seem dependent on extreme finger strength, timing and being clever. So, no, its not about simply pulling and jumping.
Sadly as I am fat nothing really happened on Action. Perhaps it's been put in context for me, it's a 9a in my style, could hardly ask for better in fact, sad that I will never now do it. And to finish, I could stir the pot up and say there is nothing on this route that would stop a very fit Grand dad with the pre requisite finger strength, there is nothing miraculous about this route. I can see certain 40 year olds doing it, not easily but reasonably quickly. If Action were near me it would be tried regularly by me, and help me keep lassitude at bay. A strong girl could also do it, she would have to be around 1m70cm, a girls fingers would make the pockets much, much better, and the famous pinch would be good for four fingers, and not three! Anyway there you go, if your strong, and not too dumb, you should get it. As to the controversy about the route and it's various ascenders, well, thats show business. Personally I would like to know about the cement on it, the resin on it, and the obvious "dicking" around the holds have had. It would help sometimes when there was so much editorial chit chat about routes, if editors actually found out about them, yes that's right, tried them, or had a look, or maybe interviewed Adler the second ascenionist who did a smashing ascent of it, and was every bit as good as Wolfie, obviously because he was Eastern block the ascent was doubted especially by the Frogs. Editors should reference, but increasingly they have neither time, or money! After all you can not have a reference, without a reference. I cannot add to the chit chat about Action versus Hubble, but I can tell you that Action is harder than Hugh in France. I suspect Action is 9a about the middle of the grade, but slab pansies should abstain.
