The new Grivel Captive Gate carabiner is very slick, why don't you have a look at it? It's gonna be a very useful "sport climbing" binner, but I see alotta places where I might use them. This carabiner is the top part, it's the one that clips the bolt, or indeed the whatever it is you clip. It's not the rope end, so to that effect the gate is not bent. The shape, and the captive gate ensure no possibilities of cross loading, and although robust it's not very heavy. Everybody knows that I like the lightest gear possible, but this binner is for those people who want there gear to last, and want a really strong safe carabiner.
The nose on the Captive gate is clean, it has no notch to get hooked up on bolts wires, or indeed any thing, this is very important. Carabiners are rated at minimum 7kn for cross loading, with stronger ones rated at 9kn this is an important rating, and really you should be very careful with biners rated at 7kn. If you cross load at the nose, a carabiner can break at 2kn! 2kn is possible very easily, a slip from just above the bolt. With the Captive gate you should never be able to "Nose clip" a binner. The Captive comes with a "fat" quick draw not in Dyneemer which is very slippery, for easier grabbing. It's a great piece of equipment, have a look, I really dig them, especially for when I am working routes and they are gonna be fallen on a lot.
