You need to mimic hold shape and use different size holds for all round gains, and it is really very, very useful to be able to hold them for more than a few seconds. Climbers should try a bit longer than they think, i.e. longer than 7 seconds.
Above you see a set up that provides a good selection of holds.
Finger strength and finger performance are key elements that decide your maximum grade! What is the best way to train them? Well theres the rub! Can any one tell you? Theres alotta different stuff out there! The one thing I do know is you should put lots of work in, over as long a period as you can, with slow, slooooow increments, or progression.
Your fingers are what really makes man unique, and the variety of hold shapes on routes is fairly endless. If you train on one shape of hold, you will get better at that hold. If you then do not train that hold you will get worse at that hold. You may also have a mental block against injury if you have already suffered finger damage.
If you are trying too hard you will defo fook up, so extreme tests should be out; if you don't test you won't do! Max tests are nearly always a bad idea. I have only one finger weakness, its the crimp, it scares me, it messes with my head. But I haven't hurt my fingers in a very long time, so I am kinnda glad I am scared.
This test took me longer than I thought it would! I have always prided myself on my mono strength, and years ago used to do mono one arms on nylon slings. Today I don't and I won't. Its really easy to injure the knuckle. But because I don't, this little test got further away over the years. So when I got so embarrassed by my inability to do it, I took care, and it took me a long, long time to get. Now I have got it with a margin, because I am over weight.
Here's some preparation, it's maybe even better from a climbing point of view.
This is the Board that Mr Crusher Holds made for me especially with some better holds that I could hold for longer.
This is my best friend, the three tiered foot stool, long holds with twists in the body. I have a belief that old climbers had as strong fingers as people today, but that their boots and core are not up to todays standards.
Type writers, do em or you'll regret it, they really are the business.