This is my non-climbing wife burning me off on the 6 millimeter edge, 18 secs! She has been training, and very well indeed, but not for long! She has always amazed me, but at the moment, I am going to slow her down. And I am going to slow down too.
This is a one arm 'lefty' weak arm, with + 14 kgs. In April I couldn't do a good one arm!
Middle two, multiple one arm.
This is not sorted totally, but is coming on good. Its the twist, and an extention up, very useful for me, as I tend to pull and stop, and thus induce failure.
Trying the same thing with weight on a rail.
Back two fingers, this is not a good idea for most folk!
I want to thank Eva Lopez. I want to thank Jurgen Reiss.
Its funny to think that Action Direct is so far from me because clearly it might be possible. I talked to Wolfgang in a cafe in Wolfsburg (I think) we talked about power and how elusive it could be. It is a little sad that at the end of my sporting life I am getting results that I would have sold my soul for. Like I said I am going to slow down, train my progression back to zero, and try to make micro improvements. I have very big problems with back pain, and calcification on one finger, plus a tendency for two knuckles to deform and hurt. Working around these problems has been interesting.
The biggest problem is my wife Laurence, she is starting more classes of Kundalini Yoga and we have less time together to enjoy our climbing and her amazing potential.