Gregor from the Cologne climbing wall gave me some money for a new route, so I picked him a good one. The name is Viva Cologne, and I thought it was 7a when I put in the expensive corrosion free titanium gear. When I got on Viva Cologne again it didn't feel 7a, it felt decidedly more!
this is another little new route in the making.Viva Cologne is the arette behind the climbers back in the above photo.
It's a lovely sector where Viva lives, sumptuous rock, iron work and fragile lace like plates. A few easy trad lines were done which should be turned into sport routes soon as we get some new equipment. Viva Cologne takes an easyish arette in superb position followed by a precarious groove without much for the feet, it's one of the best quality routes I'ave done. It felt hard on a cold windy day, with the void pulling at my sphincter.
To the right of Viva Cologne is a dark slot with two or three ways out, that then land you on a slab of massive, magnificent, pulchritude. Haven't really worked out how to make the most of it as it would be a waste to just abseil down, and do the slab without first sampling the evil darkness of the slot.
a different finish less tricky!
Crisp little finger holds on very good rock is rare on the island so we have done the easier version a few times now just for fun.
Checking out the holds on a winters day, can be fun, or not. Airy abseils are one thing, but abseils that get you immersed in the splash zone are another! The North Coast has charm and a little bite, hopefully you will find it charming and it will only nibble you.