Took the Scarpa Stix for a quick test today. I could just say it was magic, but that would be doing them a disservice. It's the best slipper I have climbed in, and I am a big slipper fan. It's got a big bonus, it some how climbs like a good edging boot! It's really sensitive, although Scarpa's Instinct S might be more supple, and subtle due to a thinner sole. The Stix has 3.5 mm of Vibram XS grip 2, the Instinct 3mm, unless you really want that extra few percent performance of feel the 3.5 is going to last you longer. There's a slight difference in top toe rubber, not that big a deal but the Stix has a few ribs of blue that you can see in the photo that help you drag the top of your foot real well.
Anyway, first route for my pair of Stix was an 8a! Second route for my Stix was an 8a, just as my shoes were warming to their task, I was powering out. The cliff has lots of toe drags, heel hooks and scums, and the shoes low profile helped in the pockets. The snug heel was an improvement on most of the shoes I've warn lately and I didn't slip out of it. I'd love these shoe with a velcro band but in this version it has the harder Edge rubber so if you like that rubber or have real tiny edges to tip toe on, you're lucky.
Sizing for me was 3 1/2 sizes under trainers, I wear mine real tight, I have heard 2 sizes down is real good for most, but as I have always said shoes are your most important buy, so take your time and really think about it.
I am really looking foreword to pushing these shoes in the next few months. The toe is really good for me, and it will still take a small pocket, and it edges on both sides really well, and all in a slipper!
The convenience of slippers is one of their best virtues but normally you give a bit up for the privilege, not exactly so it appears. Above you can see the vacuum fit I strive for.
I finally put them through a severe test but it was me that gave out. On a normally brutal series of slaps, I found myself using my feet more. This was on a route I'ave red pointed twice, but never dominated with any real margin. I look foreword to trying finally to subdue this beast, with some élan rather than my normal brutalisation. Check these slippers out at Scarpa UK, or Scarpa.
