Mike died at age 87 after a productive and interesting life. He will be missed by much of the old guard of British climbing which is naturally being winnowed by age. Mike was on the successful first ascent of Everest which was done by a huge nationalistic team with the help of additional oxygen. Some of the most dangerous climbing was done in the ice fall, opening the approach, and here Mike did his job well. It was probably his normal approach to things in general, Mike tended to do things well. I thought he was a fantastic bloke and a stalwart of climbing in Britain, my condolences go to Sally his wife, and his many friends. An obituary can be found at the Bmc web site
Mike was educated at Radley school , Oxford and as an officer of Sappers in the second world war. He was a president of the Alpine club, and it was there that I last saw him.