Animal rescue and the Olympics, by Stevie Bronze Haston.

The 400 meter record has just been broken, I used to enjoy running the magic one lap, but any joy of seeing records is probably now smoke. The previous Olympic record was in Atlanta, whether this was by an enhanced human we will never know, but what is certain is that the new record broke that one by a considerable margin, and like Mr Bolts runs, seems to have been accomplished with the handbrake still engaged.

The runner who electric glided to victory claimed the south african Blade runner -the convicted murderer -as inspiration. An interesting choice of inspiration, one might suppose. The graph of the Blade runners improvement might suggest something other than Bush Meat in his diet, but hay we all need inspiration, or did he mean help with digestion. Digesting nonsense is one of the things we have to do on a day to day basis, but at the time of the 6 big zeros, I think that a suspension of disbelief is what is ultimately necessary.

Yesterday we rescued a Chameleon from the road and took it to the live at the White Tower. Just a simple act of kindness to a fellow living thing. After this we climbed not seeing any body, because people are generally just to lazy to walk more than a a hundred yards in this country. They use American dietary adverts as their inspiration. Anyway Patrick got an 8a-good on him-I didn't, bad on me. Hopefully the Chameleon got a few ants!  

Tirplitz. by Stevie Haston.

The summer brings tourists, pollution, noise and a grumpy mood, so we opted for a corner of the island where we wouldn't see anybody. My young swiss friend is always agreeable as long as he has good routes he is happy, so far a good plan. The car park is fool, looking down at the small beach it is also full, clearly there is very little tourism planing any where in Europe or in the world in general!

Patrick on Tirpitz a fantastic route, many boulder problems separated by rest platz.

Shade is essential, humidity is high, free wild figs, and hungry ants on one of the warm ups…. 

The initial move onto Tirpitz is a bit of a wide bridge over a 20 meter drop!

Shearwater tracks, a little bird with a lot of strength.


Some warm ups, a great 6a arete called Rocket man, 6a 30 meters, it climbs straight out of vines and figs into a breeze! Then we did Gormangast 6a, a hanging fig tree, ant colonies, and exposure guaranteed. We had had a few hard days and I was keen to see how Patrick did against Tirplitz as he was climbing well and his foot work was tip top. Tirplitz was a route that when I did the first ascent had me fully gibbering! It is a rising line to the left, and the exposure seems out of proportion to its length! How would Patrick do I wondered? Well he wobbled, and did a lot of talking to himself, and did a great lead. It's a great route and I think it's wonderful  must do in this grade 7b (or 12b)-classic scare!

Post work stress disorder, by Stevie traveling Haston.

 There are great routes, and greater routes, there are of course lesser routes, but perhaps we should not even talk about them. It's hot for another month at least, but it's possible to climb in the shade with a breeze.

the route Titan is two pitches, about 70 meters, some lovely stone.

The sea was crashing today, and Patrick and I got splashed occasionally on bits of cliff hard to splash. Young Patrick was climbing well, relaxed and confident, we did 6 routes ( well he did) I did four. 

 heading towards the roof.

We did an old route of mine called DNA which is a tough lead, mainly because the second can't hear you, and doesn't know how, or when to take in, or give slack. Potentially big falls are almost garrantied on this route, and with the sea running wild, its all a bit much, especially for a pumpy 7c+.

looking at an unclimbed wall of bubbles and holes.

Patrick was still keen, and did a hard bouldery route that was previously graded 8a, but I will down grade it to 7c. He then went on a 7c+ that he thought was 8a! Grades are not rocket science and although we don't have many mistakes here on Gozo, I would like a few other opinions on grades from visitors. My grades reflect my strengths and my numerous weaknesses. If you have another opinion it might be good to drop me a line. Thanks.

I'am still standing by Stevie "vertical" Haston.

 a last memory from Utah….. thanks for the memories. Doing yoga by this lake was not ordinary.

Back in Gozo, the jet lag is going, the ordinariness of my existence seems ok, I have seen a bit, time to hunker down, and get fit for the cooler months.

 I am still standing on my hobbit feet, designed by my mother and father to wear the best climbing boots, and climb the best, most bodacious routes.

I been back and climbed the last two days with young Patrick from Swiss, White Tower, and today Sector Titan and UnderWorld. Not bad, well truth be told two of the best climbing cliffs you can be on, and it's where I live, not shabby is my place of abode! 

 this photo was clearly taken by some one who had a little alcohol in his system, perfect rock, perfect setting, high Utah.

Next time I am in Utah I gotta stay and climb, it was really nice, but the jet lag for a few days work is horrible. And seeing friends without associating is painful.

An arched an vaulted ceiling in Torino, this is a very ordinary building which you won't find in the USA, we are different, we must celebrate some of  our differences, and correct our short comings.

My last bit of work will be going to the Arco Competitions, which if you don't know is really one of the great highlights of the climbing year. Naturally I will be working and not competing, but I will not loose the opportunity to cheer the great climbers on. And all in the great town of Arco surrounded by the lake and cliffs and the warmth and sociability of Italy. Viva.

Rocks, Planes, no Trains, by Stevie Haston.

Thanks to Jake and Doug, we managed to escape the Out door show a few hours early and head into the mountains. It's high country, flowers, water in lakes, rocks and trees, it's absolutely wonderful.  

I feel like this….

I never forget climbing and the natural world, but it's a struggle some times to re-boot the computer, and just go native again. Feeling like an asylum seeker from todays complicated life, I couldn't even go climbing for a few hours, preferring to do yoga by the lake.

 high above Salt Lake city is a lovely other world, the real world, the world we have forgot…

The drive up was great, slowly leaving the modern world, and blending in with the high country. Metamorphosis was magically happening, my soul started to catch up with me.

 the world is slowly turning upside dow, but you know this right?

Yoga is my anchor. 
Did some yoga with my co worker, and drank some Hops chased down by some Rye. Talked to Alex from china who studies in France, we started talking about the complicated world, but gave up in the end and stared at the world around us. The Rye was chosen by Doug, he was sick of my whining about the poor quality of booze in Utah. He was right, and so was I, thanks Doug an excellent choice.

 we climbed on the cliffs in the background.

What can I say except that there were flowers floating, and a dragon fly flying, peace and serenity pervading.

Stevie nutritional advice…

Be careful when you drink at altitude, the store is a long way away…..
there is nothing to brew up there….
Well I am in Rome now, on the last hop across a bit of sea to my rock floating in my heart, I miss America and hope to see you again. Take care ….

Good bye America by Stevie Haston.

 Alexi

So its goodbye America, had a great time, did some good work, renewed friendships, etc. Even went climbing.

 Jim Donini, he is off to Pakistan to reacquaint himself with Latok.

The show was great, bloody hard work for me, but this was made better by so many people being nice to me. I love Salt Lake and their people.

 Up at snowbird it rained!

We went up the pass to climb and I didn't really want to. I had a dream that it would rain and our team would get down in the dark. Guess what? It did!

 sheltering from the rain, Alexi, Julia, Jake, Oliviero.

I did yoga in the rain, and down by the car, where I was joined by a mummy deer and her two babies.

 between showers it looked good.

some trad gear turned into a great exhibit.

There was a great vibe this year at the show despite the most politics I have ever heard talked by our American cousins. Crossed fingers for the election in November.

The Show must go on, by Stevie Haston

 Gary Neptune with thee Boot!

Gary came around with the original boot of Everests first ascent with oxygen. The boot is amazing, light function, and with the slimed down Grivel crampon. These are works of art, and functional design.
I,ll weigh them and give you a comparison with modern stuff, you will be shocked at the result I think.

 light warm,  effective, Everest slayer.

 the soul of the sole, light, thin.

 a detail of my poster, a photo by big Nathan, its obviously better than this, tequila will kill a photographers eye

the Grivel yellow peril.

The show was great, thanks everybody but particularly the great people at Liberty Mountain. Above is a photo of just some of them. They are real fun adorable people. Naturaly not one of them will vote for Trump. Noticeable this year was the fact that Americans were talking Politic,s which generally they would never do. Possibly bolting the Stable door after the horse has bolted but….