I'm a woman

I'm a woman
Photos copyright Laurence Gouault
No reproduction on other media without the photographer's permission.

Friday, 15 March 2013

Climbing on Gozo/Malte, by Laurence Gouault.Haston


I had a great time climbing in Gozo, really missing it now I'm back in Ariège in the snow and freezing cold...
Stevie has done a great job, more than 110 new routes of Top quality from 5+ to 8b++...and it was great to go back to the Underworld.....looking forward to go back in the autumn....
It is a great destination for the winter, spring autumn...summer a bit hot but you can try DWS, you can climb in the sun or in the shade...enjoy some good coffee with a pastizzi....if you need a place to stay on Gozo here a nice farm...mention Stevie for a special rate.... 


































Monday, 4 March 2013

Pay the ferryman, by Stevie Haston


A fossil in the rock at the Underworld cliff today. Laurence went messing around looking at things while I bolted. She was mesmerized by colors, rippling light, and the dark spells that the Underworld casts. I on the other hand...





Inigo being schooled at the climbing school of the Black Slab.

Struggling with the complexities of bolting thru layers of good rock fossils and soft cheese, makes for exciting climbing , its about day 28 on, or more, I am very tired and sometimes fall for no reason, need a rest day. Despite this, I bolted a great new route, overhanging wall on fossils and crunchy stuff, then a horizontal 15 foot roof on green stuff, masquerading as rock, we will see.

Sunday, 3 March 2013

A good hair day on Gozo, by Stevie Air Head Haston



This is a route I bolted for a friend, ok Mark how are you? It's called Spunky Arrete, and it throws off lots of lads and lasses, it's tip top.




 Inigo Taylor is a bit cold as he seconds, breezy conditions, made it slightly hairy.


 Inigo giving you the V's, and me giving you a Gozo mono. 





This is a boss 6a, it's just lost a hold and now needs more balance, a pearl.



 Inigo on a 6a+, a bit of a hairdresser's route,  sweet and fruity, very YMCA. 


 When the going gets hard, break out the Testarossas, actually a high cost boot, not locust. 



This is a crackerjack 7a, it always makes me smile, and I never find it easy. Today I had a lovely day in the rock garden of Gozo, I forgot or ignored the bad things, and center myself in sunshine.
A slightly macho 8a, with a touch of the "Gay Gordons", maybe it's harder than 8a, it certainly tests the metal in your nettle.

Saturday, 2 March 2013

Action Direct? Stevie Indirect Haston.



Laurence enjoying a 7a in the Underworld, just a carbon foot print away from her home...
Action Direct is a great little route. My life is a great little story. The world is a dying planet. Is Action Direct important in any kind of context at all. My grandchildren won't be able to visit Venice because it will be underwater soon, they will never get to old age, they will have to fight tooth and nail for water and food, they will have to wear bulletproof sunblock.
There are 1,200 coal fired power stations planed world wide. 
I live on an island that is bathed in sun, and has an average 3kt wind, it also has usable sea power, so what does it do for power? It has an oil burning power station!
I'm getting sick of cleaning up my local cliff...

I am sick of plastic. I walk to my nearest cliff on average 50% of the time and breath my neighbors gas guzzling fumes, most people here are very over weight. 
There are elections going on, and where has the fight against global warming been featured? In which climbing mag have you seen anything to help you reduce your carbon foot print? They aint gonna get their advetizing by telling you to stop buying stuff. 
I fly medium haul a few times a year, walk cycle, run the rest, my foot print is huge and I don't even have a car. I feel guilty that I have had such a great life and seen the crazy natural beuty of the world, but every now and then I cry. Its all gonna go, your children may see it, but your grand children will 'live' thru hell. 
My commune wants a wind turbine and solar panels. We live in a aging comunity in rural France, which is nearly empty from depopulation, every body has gone to work in Toulouse, where they spend their time in traffic jams, going around in slow circles trying to get to work, or back to their self catering pseudo lives. 
I work in the climbing industry, and it is an industry. One of the people who I work for has put solar panels over his huge factory, and does the end user acknowledge this and buy our product? Not really!
You don't care, nobody cares. I don't care, only twice a week do I care.
Action Direct is a airplane journey away. My nearest cliff is 15 minutes walk, and Gozo is way more beautiful than the Frankenjura. I would love to visit the fantastic limestone of China, but I'd have to fly thru Beijing, a polluted hell.  
Why does someone not guide me? Please, oh please why does someone not guide me. 
I went swimming and there were very few fish, less than last year. It's not the Last of the Mohicans it's the last of the Tuna. I only really climb in the winter, the rock is too hot in the summer, the sea feels like your bathing in your own hot blood in August. 
I left Chamonix years ago because of the pollution, The most beautiful valley in Europe gives people cancer! When I was a teenager the Bossons glacier was walkable from the valley its half away up the mountain now. The Mer de glace glacier is gained by a dozen steel ladders because it has shrunk so much.
What has been done about global warming except put a cosmetic band aid on it? 
I know this sounds depressing, but it is, don't ignore it because you would rather play with your stupid phone. I didn't blog for a month cos I was naffed off with everything, Obama, Maltese and Italian politics, myself, so I became the Ostrich, I stuck my head into hedonistically enjoying the rocks. I will continue to enjoy your share of the rocks because you lot out there in nanaland  are too busy killing my planet. Action Direct was a terrorist organization, it took Direct action, Oil companies take Direct Action, and manipulate American politics which control and drive the rest of the world. My Action Direct is not to go to a small crag, in a dull green wood, and try to climb four meters of limestone.  

Thursday, 28 February 2013

Power without technique, Stevie Haston.


So I've been watching election politics, I'd rather watch paint dry but I am concerned at the moment that two countries that I love get decent caring governments. Italy has just had a massive turbulent electoral campaign which has resulted in a hung parliament, it will end in acrimony and infighting in a confusion of coalitions. Malta where I live is in the middle of one of the dirtiest bits of mud slinging I have ever witnessed, there's been an incredible amount of graft and corruption here over the years but people want it to stop, good luck, but maybe you should vote for what is right and not just for your pocket.  




Wealth without Work
Pleasure without Conscience
Knowledge without Character
Business without Ethics
Science without Humanity
Religion without Sacrifice
Politics without Principle

Very clearly I have done many bad things in my shabby life, but as I grow older they are getting less and less. I was brought up extremely well and had some great teachers but obviously my natural selfish, and lazy character, subverted any good I could've done. Luckily I was not a politician. I was just a climber. Still and all, I managed to screw up the thing I loved the most because I had power without technique. As I watch the political circus I laugh at myself, Power  I have had, it was a gift, but the real gift is in knowing what to do with power.

Oh yes, today I did a new route, and so did Laurence, two great little wonderful bright things, they made our lives sparkle just for a while, but you can do them too, they are our gift.

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

Between a Rock and a Soft Sky, by Stevie Haston


Rock, sky, flowers, cactus, thorns, sweat, falls  from the sky towards the earth.  




 Laurence on a 6b she thought was lovely, on a crag called the Black Slab. 


 A new route  which is humiliating me, but will be a pearl, it's brute but it's a pearl.

One of the strange indigenous plants on Malta and Gozo. Lots of flowers at the moment, some of which come from South Africa, imported by the Brits. The winter Daffodil comes from the Canary islands but is just past its best, and was introduced by the French I think a few centuries ago, just another example of the islands flora, which is more numerous than in Britain or Northern Europe.

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Gozo is great by Laurence Gouault.Haston

Today went like this...
La journée d'aujourd'hui est une longue histoire...
This is the cliff where I went climbing...
C'est la falaise où j'ai grimpé dans la soirée....



Looking down from the boat...
La vue du bateau...

Me taking some sun on the boat...
Bain de soleil sur le bateau...


 Escaping the winter of France, this morning -5°...
Fuyant l'hiver ce matin -5°

End of the day
La fin de la journée
Routes done... a gorgeous arrête 6a+, face and overlap 6b...fantastic rock.
2 voies de grimpées, une arrête magnifique 6a+ et une dalle avec un délicat surplomb...6b sur du BEAU rocher...Beau geste...
Then the Orangoutang husband, who has gone completely Maltese/Gozotan, walked up Iggy's theory 8b+.
Puis mon mari d'Orang-outan , complètement dingue comme un Gozotan, à randonner  "Iggy's theory' 8b+, très très Cimai...