Colorado legalizes Marijuana, by Stevie Haston.

Four criminals...

Colorado just did what every other state in America should do, they legalised MaryJane. I dont smoke but lots of my friends around the world do, they shouldn't be called criminals for giggling and being nicer and less violent than the rest of humanity. Colorado will now save lots of money in not processing a load of peaceful non violent, floppy limbed, very layed back people, who's only crime is saying wow too much. Colorado has some of the best climbing in America and is probably the most athletic state, but now it has another reason to be proud, it's actually sensible. Just thought I'd post this because I have been in Malta  recently where if you are a foregner you can get 10 years for possession, and a slap on the wrist if you are local. Countries also legalize pot then ban it, which is a clear indication that they are just after votes most of the time. Some cigarettes have up to 14 different poisons that the FDA dont allow in foods, but of course the state or country normally taxes you for your addiction, so you are double cooked. 

Any way lads, lasses, old and young in Colorado, spark a big fatty up for me, and pray that Obama has the courage to actually do something meaningful about Global warming, and other important issues, and us lot in Europe too for that matter. I think I'll light a Joss stick and join you.   
Due to being decaffeinated I missed the fact that Washington state has legalized the dreaded weed too, good on you Washington. Another fact, does California still have that weird law 'three strikes and your out' policy? Surely that was the most mean thing, or is it the fact that the death penalty is still there in the 'most civilized country in the world'. Obviously now had  a triple cap. Are there still 2 million people in jail in the states? What percentage of the 2 million are just pot  smokers or party revelers, and debtors. They should defo delegalize triple caps, its ruined my mellow feeling. 
Anyway Colorado and Washington well done, a very good start. 

Playmate of the month, by Stevie the Player Haston

We decided to play on a different set of rocks for a while, so we changed from the cave, to em, 

another cave! 

Laurence having a hard time on a 8a she used to walk, still a great route.

The sun my precious, it hurts, it hurts, nasty sun;;;

This a very tricky 8c+, that in some ways couldn't be worse for me, crux on a tiny crimp.

This is a new bit of climbing which I have tagged on the end of the 8c+, so Dave from Wales, this last bit is just like, Jerry's into Bus stop, but with a throw from a mono tip, all in all scintillating in style, and pumpacous. If you want to come over Dave, and help, please do.

Being clever, being strong, succeeding.by Stevie unsuccessful Haston

Training with fingers injury, clever or stupid!

Being clever, being strong, succeeding, are not what I normally do. I am normally firmly in neutral, not working anything out, not specifically training, and not succeeding because I don't try very hard! I do have occasional success, because I get soooo pissed off with myself, I work myself into a frenzy of training, mad motivation and general mayhem. Mayhem is not a great strategy! Anyway you have to work with the tools you got, right? No wrong! Get some new tools dude.

My new tools are a bit more patience, understanding the nature of slow strength progression at the top of my curve, and enjoying the job a bit more.

Maybe clever, little finger front levers...

I can't take any credit for this, its been brought on by a few injuries, and the weather and other stuff.

In a world that likes success if not yesterday, then this morning, its hard to realize that you are a bit further off than you think you are.

Power to weight related sports or silly games, are a real bugger, theres always the danger that the more you do them that your weight slowly creeps up, the danger that the better you get, the more you think you are a winner, when really you have to understand the most important rule, its your total weight against the weakest link in the chain. And how many weak, or significant weak links are there in climbing, theres loads unfortunately!

I thought at the start of my climbing this year I would get a hard route at the end of October with the better temps. If nothing went wrong that is, a few things have gone wrong, so at the start of the year I knew it could take longer, well it's going that way. And here's the trick, so what.

Training just after two consecutive knee surgery, Second ascent of Octopussy a week later..

 

Yep this is why I will succeed, its either that or suicide, and before suicide mad mayhem.

And if you are interested in my weak links (because if you identify the enemy they are easier to eliminate)  they are ; wieght=too heavy, fingers=poorish full crimp. Strong points are everything else, I have seen some great climbers recently, and apart from the guys who will place high in the World cup, the rest are human!

So its back to the drawing board, or empty fridge in this case, and the finger boards. And please God of the Crimp please, please protect my A2 connective tissue just for a few months.

Rock climbing in Malta video, by Stevie Haston

Jeffrey Camilleri the prime mover in Maltese climbing.

Here the link to the promotional video to climbing on Malta and Gozo, it's pretty good.
The video shows the remarkable diversity of climbing on Malta. I just added 20 more routes, a few of them as good as anything as Ceuse. Anyway the video is a nice reminder for me of some my friends climbing in Malta, having fun and success. If you want extra informations you can try the Malta Climbing Climb a very friendly bunch of people.

Vision Quest by Stevie Haston

The 11 years old on the right Ashima, did 8c+, hard route, the old geezzer on the left needs to pull his vision fingers out. It was published in Klettern, the writing means you have no excuses...

Vision Quest is a film, is a great route, is an Indian right of passage, and I have been on one all my life. Lots of people are on Vision Quests, you dont have to have feathers in your hair, or take wierd mushrooms, you could be a huge guy who wants to break the deadlift record, or a tiny girl who wants to fly up rocks. Its been an incredible couple of weeks because I have been up down an all around the mental house because of the weather and living in a limited world of ordinary people who have totaly limited outlooks and negative vibes, but what has pulled me up out of the mire are a Japanese girl doing a boulder problem of a very hard standard, a Japanese descent girl doing an 8c+, but wait for it she is 11! Of course the ever reliable Ondra has kicked in with an 9a flash, this has excited a few people but it was coming and of course what the boy wants and might get for an Xmass present is an 'onsight', he will have to be lucky but you know people on Vision Quests sometimes are.

Bridger Jack, fine collection of towers and routes, home to the amazing route "Vision Quest".

Vision Quest the route is at Bridger Jack Towers , Indian Creek USA, and is both beau and a bit tough, it is a must do, its a wide crack so people dont try, Vision Quests are about trying, not talking. Vision Quest is very preety, I can see it's peculiar angularity, its different shades of browns, reds, fear, and perturbation. I can see the 40 degree heat, I can see the cool shade, I can see the snakes in your mind, I can see His Crazy Horse invincible to metal objects, and a friend of Lightning. What a place, please beam me back, now.

Vision Quest the film is a coming of age film that is worth your time watching especially if it is raining or winter is getting you dark and down, especially if you are not riding the lightning of youthful exuberance and are thinking old thoughts. Be forever young. Madonna is in it, playing some music in a bar, bet she didn't know she was going to contribute to the great routes library, especially wide cracks, there you go, if you want to get some extra help to train watch this movie. Here's the link.

If you think you are strong you can do a route on each tower at Bridger Jack, I seem to remember trying some stuff there that hasnt been done until.... tomorrow.

This was on top of the finger board...the Devil's coach horse.

Tomorrow is Tommorrow, right! Am I mistaken.

And that team on El Cap doing Muir, a girl, two young men, invinsible stone, made vincible by vision and flow. A very nice couple weeks, thank you all. 
  

Fingers problems, by Stevie Haston

These are my index fingers, I wondered if any body could help with a bit of help? The one on the right was broken recently and has healed well, in that there is no pain. There is problem in that there is no rear flexion and it is larger. My doctor wanted an op on it, but I didn't have the time, or felt very confident in the outcome.

The strength is the same, or more. I don't care about the shape. What do you think? 

Morning run, sunrise, not bad. It's cold here, great climbing temps, will soon do a couple of hard routes I think.

Morning run spoilt by mechanical insect, scared me and the cows!

1000 pull ups for www.climbforlife.it, by Stevie Haston

Climb for Life is a charity which promotes bone marrow donation. 

When we are sick we need looking after. When we are sick we need help. When you need bone marrow someone has to provide it. This is the link : http://www.climbforlife.it/en/

At the San Vito Festival Ondra "chose his line", it was 9a. Thanks Adam, and it is a beautiful line.

I've lost all the photos of the boys in San Vito because someone need to donate me a brain. Here is the teeshirt, in Italy these boys and charity are well known, they deserve to be more well known. Anyway, it is all part of the gift of small things!

Adam Ondra and the boys and girls from www.climbforlife.it 

There is a video of Adam climbing the 9a on their site.

Adam climbing "Climb for Life" 9a.