I was asked who the best Himalayan climber was the other day by two editors of magazines. I knew it was a loaded question, so I gave back a loaded answer. Kukuczka. Can you spell Kukuczka I asked? One could. I also did an interview with one of the most prominent mags, but I guess that won't be published, cos although that editor agreed with me 90%, it's way to against everything you read.
Anyway, 4 of the 8000 meter peaks in winter, before it became the last bastion of big marketing brands! It was all a long time ago, so perhaps you have every right not to know, and no one tells you right.