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Wednesday, 20 November 2013
Climbing politics and nonsense, by Stevie Haston.
Stevie comparing fat fingers with relatives from Gozo : On the left Salvo and he has soloed pigeon crack, he is 76 year old now, and Tony who used to do pull ups with one of his son on his back.
So the guide to Malta and Gozo is printed, and will be out this week, it's not bad, in fact it's very good, and will make for a nice little visit. But the politics go on as they do, people want bolts closer together, they want standard sanitized over protected virtual climbing. The world is changing for the worst, and the people who could fight a rear guard action against this emasculated pathetic world, are now passing to the other side, or getting gentle and senile.
The new Maltese president.
The circus on Everest is yearly increasing with the last vestige of adventure stripped away, you don't even need an axe anymore, just a jumar and oxygen, and a few drugs. The money that is made on Everest by the big operators is staggering, and no wonder they fight for there right to bank it!
Anyway just because I have my name on a guide book, don't for one second think you don't need a brain, and some ability, some understanding of the climbing dangers you are in. Today a 7c of mine turned into an 8a for someone else, despite being bolted really well!
Anyway I am unfortunaly part of this crazy world, and somewhat involved in popularizing climbing as I think it's ace, it's not fool proof, it's just ace! Today a mate from Italy did one of my 8a's, and thought it is the best route he's done, what more can I want, just fabulous wealth, and my chicks for free!
I finished bolting a route in the underworld the other day, and it's class, need to red point it now, and a few others too. Not climbing great at the moment, but it's still there. There is the perennial problem of sorting out my weight, and getting in gear. This year has been a bit all over the place but I haven't giving up, or in. And a bit of politics won't mess things up, earning money might help.
Give that man a job before he through himself under a buss!
As I have grown older people for some reason people think I am passed it, and employment is rare, what is rare is finding anybody that can do what I do, and that isn't boasting it's called applying for a job, as May West said "if you got it, flaunt it". So if you need a job done, and you think I might fit the bill, but I ain't cheap.
The weather has been horrible in Europe, but here in Malta climbing just goes on, and that's because we ain't really in Europe, don't tell anybody. More fun and success to you.