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Tuesday, 2 June 2015

Union City Blue, by Stevie Blue Haston.


 Life aint easy, you got to climb in heat, and get what's left of your brains baked! Am complaining a bit much, to be really honest, it was a great day, did a new route called Union City Blue. It's 6b, and mega beau, got a bit of everything including obligatory slab move above zee bolt at the top, when all you can think of is having a Shandy, and not a Hand Shandy  at that!


 This is one is gonna be toxic for the avant bras, bros- it's steep, zee wood in the forearms will be agony. It's gently over hanging pockets, then a groove with some nasty poisonous bridging at the limit. It's gonna be good, oh so good.


Just watched Valley Up Rising last night, and it's very good, there's the usual  American hyperbole at work, but if you ignore that it's a good film, and is a very fitting tribute to Dean Potter who died recently. I do recommend this film immensely. But I find it odd  and reprehensible that all the fat cats who have million dollar companies did nothing to stop this Park turning into a car park for townies, complete with gun toting Park rangers. Their money was in no small part  based on the climbing in Yosemite, and they  did so little  to stop  this stunning National Park and treasure, turning into such a sacrificial pile of touristic Mac Do Play station drive thru Shite Burger Land. I was last there When Dirty Derrick Hersey died, he was the last of the real dirt bags I ID'ed his body, and pissed off, sick of the overcrowded place.  Now a climber can only stay a week there, that's it. So much for freedom.  And maybe Dean is better off flying around free, sorry for his loved ones, and sorry for the world we are loosing. So  fat cats, who earn money out of our sport, do something, you tossers.