Training is just a protocol for getting better, you stress the body parts you need and they get stronger. Training is not a Fru Fru Nouvel Cuisine thing that looks great and doesn't feed your belly. I just watched loads of nutty vids, but my favourite is of a 9b climber being put through some useless excersies with a Thereaband that looks like a weak bit of panty elastic. Climbing does involve lots of complex movements and skill but the real important muscles are the ones that control the fingers- if you can't hang on you can't use skill! The fingers need care, and prolonged work, they are as much soft connecting tissue as muscle, be careful, and stick to a finger board plan.
The seven days that changed France for ever, well not really! Paris was exactly the same when I went thru the other day, they were eating cheese and being extremely French. Politics, Training, Mind control, it seems they are all the same. Just stick to basic common sense, get strong slowly, don't listen to the hype and the exaggeration.
A funny winter of discontent, not a great deal of ice, not a great deal of snow. This photo was heading south to climb ice, but really I wished to go further south, some friends were in Indian Creek crack climbing the same day.
Carnival time again, 30,000 visitors in a my tiny village, wow, that sure makes the limestone cliffs look like paradise. After a month away working and no real time or opportunity to train I tested my fingers and they seem very good, no real loss in strength. So what did I do, well it boiled down to about four sessions of pull ups on door edges or a board, pretty basic, eh? The skill part will be very rusty of course, and I'll have to do some rehab for my knee. So the re- hab for the knee will be done with a bit of slack knicker elastic, yea of course it won't.
