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Tuesday, 17 December 2013

Paying the bills with Peanuts, by Stevie bananas Haston.


Ken and Ramon, above a band of rock where you can find fossilized teeth of the Mega Shark, who we can't spell. Climbing thru the ages, across history, the latest chapter will be humans and their monuments to their own ego.

 The new Editor in Chief of Climb your pole Mag.

I am baffled by climbing writing, Ok, I am easily baffled, but what is going on? I got a page in Rock an Ice magazine which was good, and the cover for a change went to Ondra who deserves it, but the issue, and it was a good one still felt a bit whack. Why? And the USA Mags are better than the Euro ones, they are Whacked to the Max, writing paid by manufactures, and some climbers who cant get over the fear that boulders might roll over them while they cringe under sit down starts.


Where have all the brave men gone? Where have the girls with balls gone?

Climbing is loosing more and more people to other sports. There's hardly any money in it and what there is goes to grease the wheels and not the muscles of climbing.


 Ondra says he's going back to comps next year. Why? I have been electrified by his fantastic routes since he wisely renounced comps, now I am to be bored again. Thanks Adam! And while Iam at it, thank you World Cup people, you are some of the best climbers we have got, and you thrill me half as much as you should! 



This route is called Sexy Swedish Sadistic Suffragettes, it's only twenty meters of roof.

Its also only 8a, 8a is the grade of premature babies today, 8a is the grade of decrepit old coddgers encased in Zimmer frames. 8a isn't even a grade, its a Statement, a Statement of Youth. The climbing establishment is also a Statement, its a statement of control, orthodoxy, so go on your regulated sponsored trips to Kali or where everville, and be the companies monkey. And get paid peanuts or bananas!