Sunday, 13 December 2015
Sector Titan Gozo, by Stevie Haston.
Martin Roberts AKA Mr T (titanium of course) turned out to be a very useful bloke! He came over, and got stuck in not at sector Titan, but at the Underworld. I insisted he climb before he helped me. We did Gift of Small things, Dead Kennedy's and Everlasting, he thought them all super, and we then visited the Inner Sanctum of the Underworld. As Martin has climbed all over, including Thailand and Kalymnos, it didn't come as much surprise to me to be told that the Underworld stacked up rather well as a world class cliff. So he was pleased with the climbing and I was glad I'd invited an appreciative and good climber to my island. Martins' awe at the fossils, and cliff in general were the best thing, that and a few Titanium gifts. A King always brings gifts.
Next day we went to sector Titan, and again Martin was happy. We slipped in the day before and had done a quick first pitch to Sissyfuss, up a pocketed wall of bullet hard orange mottled rock, unfortunately we had no gear so it was done old style-no protection. It was only grade 5, easy but spectacular. I will adorn it in a few Titananium bolts soon. Promise.
Sector Titan comes in two haves which the route Sissyfuss cuts in two. The left bit is slightly overhanging and pumpy looking, intimidating and hard. The right hand bit of cliff is bigger, 50 meters and a bit more mellow with huge holds and features apart from a small overhang of 4 to seven meters in the middle. There will be lots of 6s, and a couple of 7s in this area. The ledges are perfect at the bottom.
I gave Martin the best line, the central shallow groove which looks total class, he seemed very happy cleaning and working it out, while I messed about soloing and exploring.
It was a long day which could have been eased by other people helping, but of course words are not actions, and I am getting increasingly pissed off.
Jeff took us to the cliff and back, a bit late as he got lassoed into trying to bolt one of my old trad routes called Dicktator, on Fruitcake Land. A few beers with Martin, Jeff, and Didi and the dog at the local Pizza parlour, we discussed the endless, interminable climbing politics of a tiny island. At a certain stage I left and realised that I was lucky and spoilt, walking the dog through my peaceful, colourful village. I had done two new routes, and sorted out a big cliff. My Xmass gift is acquired but not wrapped, you lot out there in climbing land will be the recipients.
Special thanks to Martin Roberts who took time off work to come and visit Gozo and give me valuable advice about sustainable bolting, Titanium versus stainless, you can read about it, Titan Climbing, on the Web.