I'm a woman

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Photos copyright Laurence Gouault
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Monday, 16 November 2015

Gozo Climbers Choose Titanium, by Stevie Haston.


After considerable thought, and consideration, looking at all the facts, I have decided only to use Titanium in Sport routes. For climbing in tropical areas above, or near the sea, there can be no other choice. Experience has proved this time, and again. Bolts which protect climbers snap, and are prone to weakness due to adverse conditions, and chemical processes, especially if the material is stressed. Most if not all of these genuine fears can be eliminated if you choose Titanium. A recent report by the UIAA has categorically said this is the case. The Gozo Climbing Association may be the first in the world to politely insist/suggest strongly that all routes from now on be equipped with Titanium grade 2. 

The bolt on the left is Titanium, and the one we have chosen. Please note that climbing is a dangerous sport, particularly if done by the careless, unskilled, or accident prone. No climb is 100% safe, no bit of climbing equipment is indestructible, so be careful.

What does this mean to climbers? It means that every route from now on should last for around 50 years, without an upgrade. Previously routes became dangerous at the whim of chemical corrosion and stress. Hopefully this upgrade should make climbing less of a lottery. While there is no one hundred percent rule in climbing we think that this is the minimum standard. The UIAA seem to think so too. The UIAA is the Union International of associations of Alpinists and is the top body for making guidelines.
From now on we would like visiting climbers to adhere to these suggestions, we also wish to keep records on the date of placing so as to keep track. So please climbers, keep me updated if you do any new routes. We hope this news is welcome, and hope other areas will follow suit. Good safe climbing to all.