I'm a woman

I'm a woman
Photos copyright Laurence Gouault.Haston
No reproduction on other media without the photographer's permission

Monday, 26 March 2012

Resurrection and the light, by Stevie Lazarus Haston.

It's nearly Easter, and I feel the need of some religion. Finding the biggest free climbable roof does that to me you know. Being unfit this new challenge has come at the wrong time but so do visitations from God. Timing they say is everything but clearly I have no organizational ability or planning capacity. Still when you see a fifty-meter roof covered in big holds you can't help give it a go. So a go consists of breaking your back, filling your eyes with dust from upside bolting and generally hurting your self. Luckily I have  some friends  with me who are sharing the work and pain.  We have bolted some great routes and taken some big falls. The big bruising fall I took was a surprise as I was in full rampant route mode, breaking a big hold, I took a crushing fall, still I finished after a rest. Bruises, cuts and abrasions, a big hook, I have for aiding, has buried it self in my arse and it suppurated, I had a block on my face, I was a mess but we have done fifteen new pitches some of which are world class. My own supply of bolts is gone and the two Maltese clubs are keeping me supplied now. There is so much rock on the three islands that the work will never end. Some of the work will have to be in talking to the various conflicting bodies who seem to wage war on climbers. The local climbers are trying to develop sport for locals and visitors and are plagued with problems, I pray that it is sorted out in favour of our sport after all it is good for tourism and locals alike. These problems have kept me at work on my favourite cliff called the Underworld, there are nobody there who bothers me just me my mates and my great sport, oh yes and the biggest, crassest roof I have ever seen. Wish me luck with the burly roof and the bureaucrats?

Underworld roof

The roof

Tools of the trade

Saturday, 17 March 2012

More routes in the Maltese Cave, by Stevie Haston

Here more photos from Simon Alden, more routes, boys are working hard bolting...

Wednesday, 14 March 2012

Big Cave in Malta, by Stevie Haston

Stevie has discovered a big cave in Malta, he started bolting a huge roof, more news to come soon, here some photos.

Thursday, 8 March 2012

40 years Dream, by Stevie Haston

Today I did a new trad route on Gozo that I saw when I was a child. I did it with Simon Alden from the Malta Climbing Club. Also the route is easy, it's very loose, friable and scary. 140m in 5 small pitches, it reminded me of Gogarth. I also saw some crazy wall which will probably go with ice axes. Thanks Simon for the pictures.

Stance of the first pitch

Saturday, 3 March 2012

La Sportiva Solution , By Stevie Haston.

If you are looking for a top quality bouldering and climbing shoe you might consider the Solution. It is a slipper with a variable Velcro strap but climbs more like a shoe. The Solution has the best heel of all the Sportiva shoes, and for that reason alone good boulderers should consider it. It also has generous rubber on top of the toe for toe hooking and bicycle clamping. If you wear them tight they, are very rigid and toe better, but personally because of the narrower fit, I wear them a size up from normal, as a more softer and sensitive tool. Laurence my climbing partner who has a narrower foot likes them tight and then they become an allround shoe for her, even all day on multi pitch.

The Solution is a well made shoe, with a good down turn on the point that should last thru alotta climbing. Its walls also offer a bit more protection to the foot so you might like them for cracks and caming in pockets. If you need a bit more room width wise, and a bit more control from laces then it’s the Testarossa, it’s a bit of a tough choice between them if you only buy one. I also like the Solution more for crack because it covers your foot really well and there’s no obvious pressure points from compression. Good luck.

Friday, 2 March 2012

Gozo, projects and 9's, by Laurence&Stevie Haston

Off to Gozo for two months and half, a bit of bolting, some amazing lines...Mark Mcgowan will join me soon.
Went to Sabart cave and projects are still there, gorgeous and keen to train again, back on the road for 9's maybe....

Top a King line, photos Simon Alden
Proper King line, photo Simon Alden